Seven things learnt in seven days in Sana’a

1. Do have a seasoned Sana’a jaywalker with you when you cross the road during your first few days. With no pedestrian crossings or traffic lights, to get across three lanes it’s all in the hands of Allah. Or Alice in my case.

2. Don’t sit next to a man on the dabbab (public transport minibus). Not only does it go against local etiquette, but their hands tend to wander.

3. Do remember to duck if you’re in the Old City. Doorways are Alice in Wonderland small.

4. Do get used to climbing lots of steep stairs. The high rises of Sana’a’s Old City are a few hundred years pre-elevator.

5. Do be prepared for the 4am call to prayer wake up, especially if your bedroom window is 30ft from the local mosque. (hear below)

6. Don’t be surprised to see Sana’ais playing football at 2am. At the weekend young Yemenis turn the empty bus station in Freedom Square into a football field and play through the night.

7. Don’t walk around in public with wet hair. People who’ve just had sex wash their hair - apparently.

What I haven’t learnt in the last seven days? My way round the Old City.